November 2012

HalloweenGrey skies, an ever thickening blanket of falling leaves and a recent cold spell are all signs that November is upon us with winter fast approaching. Summer still has the feeling of only being yesterday but in truth, with each passing day it is becoming something of a distant memory.

October went out with what is becoming a traditional Halloween Festival and in England, the 5th November also means Guy Fawkes Night when effigies of Guy Fawkes who tried to blow up the Houses of Parliament in what was known as the Gunpowder Plot, are burnt on bonfires accompanied with a fireworks display.

These two events, one ancient the other not quite so tend to indicate how different countries around the world adopt local traditions and circumstances into their way of life.

As a youngster, Halloween was not really celebrated in the UK but the news was always focused on the American “Trick or Treat” custom which had developed. Our ever growing supermarkets not ones to miss an opportunity for increased profits, soon realised there was money to be made out of Halloween and consequently started advertising witches hats, pumpkins and all the associated paraphernalia in a big way. Now in the UK, Halloween is as big an event as it is in many other parts of the world. In this case, the drive for increased profits created another tradition in the UK.

The festival of Halloween itself goes way back into history. The name is an abbreviation of All Hallows Evening and there is some debate whether it developed from Christian origins or was adopted from the Celtic pagan Samhain festival. If the origins were Celtic, the Roman Empire which never found any difficulty in adopting local traditions and customs would certainly have helped spread the custom around countries under its control. The Polish Roman Catholic Church has recently raised concerns that Halloween rituals risked promoting the occult but it is fair to say over time, the Christian Church never faced any difficulty in adopting elements of Pagan ritual into it’s own customs. Two examples of this are Yew trees in church graveyards and more local to myself, the tradition of Wassailing. Wassailing is a ritual where the local clergy tour the local apple orchards early each year to give a blessing for a fruitful harvest. In some ways, carol singing is also a form of wassailing. Elements of both the rituals or symbolism of the Yew tree and Wassailing can however be traced back to Pagan origins. There are probably other examples as well.

Bonfire NightI dare say the English tradition of burning a human effigy on a bonfire will one day in the future be viewed as not being politically correct but at the moment it is something we will continue to enjoy. As a youngster, we used to make our Guy Fawkes dummies some weeks before bonfire night. By propping the dummy up on a street corner or pushing it around the streets in an old pram, we would call out what had become a traditional cry of “Penny for the Guy” to passers-by. It was a way for children to collect money with which to buy fireworks. Laws have since changed and it is no longer possible for children to buy fireworks.

Fireworks have also changed both in design and price. Penny bangers as they were known are now banned as are jumping crackers. Fireworks were also small in size compared with those on sale today. As both the size and complexity of modern fireworks have developed, so has the price. Fireworks have now become so expensive that few people can now afford to spend a small fortune to go up in smoke. As the price of fireworks increased, so has the popularity of organised displays where everyone is a winner. For a modest entrance price, it is possible to enjoy a firework display far grander than an individual could afford. In some ways displays are similar to when I was a child. People then used to close off a street and everyone could enjoy watching everyone’s fireworks.

scan0001Recently on a recommendation from friends we went to lunch at a public house in the tiny village of Dinnington in Somerset, about a 15 minute drive from our home. The pub known as Dinnington Docks was the former 17th century free house known as the Rose and Crown. Dinnington Docks is situated on the Fosse Way, the original Roman road that linked Lincoln, (Lindum Colonia), in Lincolnshire with Exeter, (Isca Dumnoniorum), in Devon. It is also close to the excavation site of the largest Roman villa ever found in Britain which once featured in a Time Team television programme.

Our friends recommendation proved well worth the visit with a modestly priced but more than adequate delicious meal accompanied with equally good service. Good pubs like this seem to abound in this part of the world. It is also a pub featured in Camra’s Good Pub Guide.

The decor of the pub features railway and maritime memorabilia to reflect local folk lore of which a spoof picture is incorporated in the pubs sign. The pub also welcomes dog owners and as they say, “Whether on foot, two wheels or four, on a boat or a train, with or without dogs or children, dripping wet or dry as a bone, you will be welcome”.

I can certainly endorse that and although probably better suited to fairer weather conditions, anyone who enjoys hiking holidays would do well to make this pub part of their route and the welcome respite it offers.

April 2012

Update 06/04/2012

Queens Arms, Wraxall, Somerset

My wife and I are part of a group of friends in my village which has become known as the “Birthday Group” so called as each month we go out to lunch to celebrate an individuals birthday. Fortunate as we are in Somerset to have a large number of village pubs which serve excellent cuisine are modest prices, like most people we do tend to have our favourites. Our last outing however we went to a pub most of us had never visited before except for one member of our group whose birthday were were celebrating and for who our venue had more than special memories.

The pub was the Queens Arms at Wraxall in Somerset with extensive views over the local countryside. It is located on the only crossroads at Wraxall with the The Fosse Way, an important major Roman Road of it’s time, and part of the A37 road network. I think we were all very impressed at the extensive menu, well prepared and delicious meals, coupled with good service that we received at the Queens Arms, that it will certainly go on our favourites list. I would personally recommend a visit there to anyone who has the opportunity.

Our companion took great delight in explaining he was born in a house located adjacent to the pub which has been subsequently demolished and replaced by a newer building. He was the son of a dairy farmer, a career he also pursued in later life and where as a boy, he helped his father make their own farmhouse cheese for public sale. Our friend recalled how each weekday he would walk along one country lane from the crossroads to go to school at the village of East Pennard. He also suspects that particular walk with modern traffic would be rather dangerous today as most country lanes are unpaved. East Pennard is close to the now internationally renown Worthy Farm where the Glastonbury Music Festival takes place.

Our friend reminisced how as a lad during the war years, he would stand fascinated on the roadside watching convoys of military vehicles going about their business. During the run-up to D-Day, of which they were unaware at the time, he would see seemingly endless columns of military vehicles and troops making their way along the Fosse Way towards the south coast in preparation for the invasion. It was also during the war years due to manpower shortages his grandmother was also the landlord of the Queens Arms.

It is strange how that same European conflict set a chain of events that led to him meeting his wife who is also a good friend of ours. She was born in pre-war Germany, the daughter of a Jewish doctor. Clearly her father was a very erudite man with a good sense of political nous who could foresee likely future events unfolding in that country. Wisely he was able to get his family out of the country to England before the tragic events that befell most of his fellow German Jewish countrymen. Although for given circumstances he could not immediately join his family, he was able to follow later before the full force of the Holocaust was unleashed.

Our friend would certainly not describe herself as a writer but she is more than conscious that her personal memories do form an important period in history. Consequently she has been busy consigning all her memories to paper so that someone in the future can make good use of them. Her memories should prove interesting reading.

Burton Bradstock, Dorset

April arrived not to the normal slow but gentle warming of a departing March but on the tail end of a mini-heat wave. Unseasonal as this advanced and unexpected outburst of Summer may have been, it was never-the-less welcome following a dreary winter. In some ways, I feel pulled between two directions at once. On one hand is the longing for the future Summer sun, tempered by the need for good rainfall on the other hand as warnings of future drought conditions become increasingly stronger. I placate myself with the thought there is nothing I can do about the weather anyway, I might as well enjoy or endure whatever the weather may bring.  Que Sera Sera as the Italian’s would say, whatever will be, will be.

Burton Bradstock, Dorset

We did however take a trip to Burton Bradstock on the Jurassic Coast in Dorset. From our home it is only a 45 minute trip and the coastline and countryside are so beautiful in this part of the country. Burton Bradstock is an un-commercialised village nestling between surrounding hills. The short road from the village to the beach terminates in National Trust property and from there the coastal path stretches in both directions to Portland Bill to the east and through Golden Cap to Lyme Regis and Exmouth in the west. This large distinctive semi-circular stretch of the English coast is known as Lyme Bay. The shoreline and cliffs of the Jurassic Coast continue to yield a seemingly endless supply of new fossil discoveries. I cannot help but wonder how much the Earth has changed since these long extinct creatures left their imprint in the sands so many million of years ago, that the sand has since become a rock face.

The Easter holidays are now only a few days away and like migrating flocks of birds, it will be the signal for the annual tourist season to begin as once more droves of traffic  makes the trek westwards for people seek the respite of the much loved West Country. I think it has been estimated that during the peak season, the population of the West Country more than doubles due to visitors.


As we go about our daily lives, hurrying and scurrying, hither and thither, it is often the case that we rarely pause to reflect on surroundings we pass, or even give the location a second thought or glance. Ilchester in Somerset is one such place close to my home where most people are passing through but rarely going to.

Despite this frequently unnoticed environment, Ilchester has a long and sometimes nefarious history stretching back to Roman times and before. There does not appear to be any real definition that determines when a large village is considered to be a town or vice versa. I suspect definitions of a town have changed over time and what once was considered a large settlement in the past, would nowadays be considered small. Ilchester was once called a town, at one time, it was even the county town of Somerset before that honour moved to Taunton.


Ilchester Oppidum

 Recent archaeological excavations at Ilchester’s sports field uncovered a late Stone-Age Oppidum, (a Tribal Meeting Area), in the form of a circular mound creating an enclosure. This symbolic mound was constructed of earth/clay over a base of stone. One half of the Oppidum was constructed of white Lias stone and the remainder of Ham stone.

With the Roman occupation of Britain, they established a large settlement at Ilchester about 60AD which they named Lendiniae later referred to in the seventh century as Lindinis. The settlement sat astride and protected the Fosse Way, a major route across England that linked the Roman towns of Exeter (Isca Dumnoniorum) with Lincoln (Lindum Colonia). A fork in the road at Ilchester went directly to another Roman settlement at Maiden Castle near Dorchester in Dorset. The Romans eventually made Dorchester (Durnovaria) their main settlement and many Roman relics are still found in the area today. These roads are known today as the A37 and A303.

The Romans undertook extensive engineering works to the River Yeo that flows through Ilchester to allow navigation from the sea at Burnham. Roads were also paved, drainage installed and large villas with mosaic floors and central heating were built. One of the countries largest Roman cemeteries is also located in Ilchester. Even to this day there is a requirement for much of the land covered by the old Roman settlement, for archaeologists and historians to inspect sites prior to building works.

After the withdrawal of its legions and the demise of the Roman Empire, this country entered the period known as the Dark Ages between 400AD – 900AD. This period of our history is so named as little is known about it. The Dark Ages were a period where little documentation was used or survived and much of our evidence from this time period comes from archaeological excavations. The same is true of Ilchester’s history during this time.

The Dark Ages gave way to the Middle Ages with constant Viking raids. The Vikings also established their own settlements not too far away in Dorset. King Alfred (the Great), ruled at this time and he utilised towns like Ilchester which still had surviving fortified Roman walls in his campaigns to rid the large area of England known as Wessex of the Viking invaders. The old Roman walls were so strong, that Ilchester was one of the few places able to withstand a later historical siege from William the Conqueror.

Roger Bacon the philosopher and scientist is believed to have been born here about circa 1210. As a county town, Ilchester at one time had its own mint and the county gaol. Ilchester Gaol was infamous for its ill-treatment of prisoners and public executions. It was also part of the judicial circuit of the infamous Judge Jeffreys otherwise known as ‘The Hanging Judge’. In the aftermath of the Monmouth Rebellion where West Country rebels tried to overthrow King James II, court hearings were held headed by Judge Jeffreys that became known as the Bloody Assizes. This draconian judiciary toured the West of England dispensing terminal justice to many captured rebels. Twelve of them were publicly executed at Ilchester Gaol.

Illustrations exist of regular public executions held at Ilchester Gaol which depict a gallows consisting of a long wooden beam supported by upright posts and set above the entrance ramparts of the prison. This gallows allowed as many unfortunate prisoners as was necessary to be hanged at the same time in full view of the crowds below. Apparently large crowds used to gather in Ilchester on ‘hanging days’ for their entertainment. Given at the time people could be hanged for the most petty of crimes including sheep stealing, it was quite likely that many such days occurred. Hence the saying that one might as well be hanged for a sheep rather than just a lamb. Little heed was paid by the judiciary of the individuals social conditions or whether their families were starving.

The site of Ilchester Gaol moved to different locations several times. On one occasion the prison fell down due to disrepair allowing all the prisoners to escape.  The prison eventually closed in 1843. Thankfully, it was never rebuilt.

At one time due to historical reasons Ilchester boasted two members of Parliament which was highly unusual given its small size. With some of the parliamentary candidates being local landowners, it is said they engaged in scurrilous practices of either building or demolishing properties to ensure that local residents either would vote for them or were no longer eligible to do so if their properties no longer existed.

At one time Ilchester also hosted a nunnery and a monastery, the latter being closed by Henry VIII when he dissolved the monasteries in both a land and monetary grab.

Many holiday makers in the past on their way to the West Country via the A303 will have driven through Ilchester. Perhaps driven is the wrong description, crawled would be a more apt word. Before the Ilchester by-pass was built, both the A37 and A303 shared the same short stretch of road through Ilchester before parting again and going in their respective directions.

The two junctions where these primary roads met and divided were the cause of horrendous tailbacks of traffic for many miles during the peak holiday season. I suspect most motorists would be trying to keep both their tempers and car engines cool as they slowly progressed with their carload of exuberant children through the narrow streets. Too frustratingly otherwise engaged to appreciate some of the finer esoteric points of the historical village they were passing through.

With so much history packed into Ilchester, readers who have never been there could be forgiven for believing it is a place is of large dimensions. However Ilchester remains a small village by modern-day standards, barely more than one-third of a mile square.

If you ever have the opportunity to drive through or visit Ilchester, perhaps you will to allow your mind a little time to dwell  on the rich historical past of this small village. Ilchester is in no way unique, most of the UK is equally rich in local history. Why not visit your local museum to find out just what historical treasures lay at your front door?

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